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Price 1000 Euro
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I am reaching out to you for help with a problem that I cannot resolve.
Recently the engine error light came on, I checked it - Shock sensor - open circuit.
I replaced the sensor with a new one - same error.
I checked the socket, connection to ECU - pins 21 and 31 - ok. Grounding is also ok.
I checked the power to the ECU - everything seems to be fine, all Control unit supply pins, earth pins connectors too - connected. I just don't know how to check Connector C, pin 29 - Start-up signal from ignitions switch and what voltage must come from there.
I put in another ECU- the same error appears.
I've checked the voltage between pin 1 and 2 (Knock sensor connector) + 3.26V.
Any help/advice is much appreciated.
Best Regards,
Hristo
My problem is that this car has been in a crash, car is fully restored back in pre crash condition. I would like to reset the crash data from the module, if possible.
If its possible to read data from module, what data do I need to read out?
I am trying to make stage 2 on 2.0TFSI Engine EA113
HW: 0261S02220
SW: 1037386817
VW SW: 8P0907115B 0040
Car has K04 from S3 and we machines the K03 compressor housing to fit inside K04 catrige. Installed a new cam lobe for the HPFP and all adjustments are done in the file.
But a have one strange issue that car desired boost in going down very sharp after 5000rpm https://drive.google.com/file/d/1UadJyiS...drive_link
Boost all the time is 1 bar and drops after 5K to 0.5 and stays there until the end.
Car doesnt register any fault codes. Not ignition retard is registred during the pull in 4th gear.
Fuel pressure is stable from the begining to the end and follow desired one. Intake temperature is arround 35C. Car is manual tranmision.
I did change a lot of staff but still same issue at the end start shooting in directions that is not a good idea I believe.
File is litle mess because I have triedeverything logical and not logical one.
I'm having issues with deleting 27BD DTC fault code from BMW ME9.2 ECU (N42 engine).
Fault path is 00 but I still get fault code.
Could someone check if solution is ok?
Hello mates
i bought thincar S10 pro .
i am trying to install its adaptor on laptop and have tried all means but to no avail
the pc setup was download from their website and installed but still not working
need good drives or setup.
thanks in advance
Short version:
Hello, my audi 2011 A5 2.0t has dsg7 dl501 gearbox. It had a problem with adaptation not complete and banging into gears. So after long discussion with a Chinese parts seller and many online hours researching I replaced my clutch with the refurbished clutch kit (whole thing with steel basket). Now after replacement should I must perform clutch adaptation (basic settings) first??? Because after replacement when the car started I checked lower adaptation values 7.2 and 9.0 bars (which was old clutch's data) tried a quick shift check and the banging was still there.
Long version:
around 2021 December my car lost odd gears while sitting in road congestion. At that time only even gears were available so I slowly drove home safely. At that time, car services were mostly unavailable because of after pandemic rules, border restrictions, etc. With error codes and quick research problem was mechatronic unit circuit board (black cable thing?). At that time parts were not available in my country so I ordered it from AMAZON USA. Parts came I replaced the circuit board and N440 N436 N472 solenoids of mechatronic, it was around 2022 summer. After replacing the solenoids and circuit board I tried to perform adaptation few times it was always not complete, adaptation values are erased when driving to relearn it has always stuck on some point so that clutch engagement point not broke in, driveable but 2nd to 1st gear always bangs and P to D is bangs too. That time I suspect solenoids maybe faulty or maybe transmission fluid level is not correct. I redo things at autumn (few months just parked not driven) and changed the transmission fluid (to be sure everything was done correctly). The problem was still there but I realized when transmission fluid temp goes above 75C gears start to bang (2nd to 1st and P to D). I usually drive around 2-5km (1.2-3.1miles) which means trans fluid temp not reach high enough to bang. Then one day while banging error code came P17D700 Clutch pressure too high. At that time I had thoughts that my amzn USA parts were faulty. I just parked my car as it is.
So around 2023 October I bought a refurbished mechatronic whole unit without TCU (mech body with all solenoids and circuit board) and bought audi genuine dsg tranny fluid. Swapped whole unit put my tcu to new mech unit. Tried adaptation with OBDEleven and no luck, tried with ODIS-S no luck. It always gets stopped with some error but error is not sure. The problem was still bangs but this time it was not driveable. New error came something like reached at limit (forgot exact error) At this point I contacted seller off mech unit and told them what was happened etc. Their engineer contacted with me via email I provided scan log etc things then he pointed that mech unit is Ok problem is worn clutch and bad clutch piston.
A week ago (2024 Nov) I bought a refurbished clutch pack (whole clutches with steel basket) and swapped it yesterday. Did not driven, didn't do adaptation yet do I need (must) to do adaptation? After started the car tried to put in gears, when P to R it had a slight bang (not hard but multiple times) so i just put it back to P and turned it off. It was 6AM at that time, my friend and I started around 9pm whole tranny out replace clutch took us around 9 hours.
Thanks everyone of you who read to this point. Sorry for my bad English, and hope someone has advice for me.
Hy guys..
anybody familiar with this ecu SAGEM S2PM ? this car drives me crazy..always same faults accelerator pedal sensor..measuring voltage on pins on ecu conector all is fine but anway car refuse to work normaly...sometime even start like work on 3 and 1/2 cynder..so probably ecu is faulty..Iam prety sure there must be some fuzy logic so IF pedal not work car must run anyway-maybe on 1200-1300 rpm but must work fine without hickups
cant find same numbers closest what I have near is S2PM 383...myne is S2PM 380..anybody know what is last number..maybe just some coding or they are diferent in car hardware...
find some pictures with eeprom location so this cant be easy task...
so please share youre knowledge...is it worth to try anyway
best regards!
hmm silence ....OK will try to find original ecu numbers 380
Solved with same number ecu,litle hard to remove that ruber but anyway SOLVED
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Mercedes w140 - s class.
A key with one button, the central locking works, the green or red lights come on, but when the ignition is turned on they both start flashing together.
The starter turns but does not start.
Everything can be seen in the video attached. Any solution?
Hi,
I would like to know if it's possible to completely remove TPMS from Chevrolet Orlando. Dashboard looks like Zafira C, it's just blue instead of red colour.
Three tpms sensors are dead and it's not something we really need in that car. So I want to get rid of the annoying message on the screen. I have OPCOM, but could not find the option to remove the TPMS. I understand that I need to code it from IPC and BCM and it can't be done with OPCOM.
Will opel scanner do this ? Someone tried that ? Or can I read IPC and BCM eeprom and someone here can manually change the data in dumps ?
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Hello maybe anyone can Help me coding my VW EOS ESP the ESP is Original from this CAR but ....
i trying Reflash ESP and i take wrong sgo file and flash it whit the wrong SW so lost epp... i open it and put Epprom from other ESP whit same number and flash it now to 1K0907379CE_0120 but now they dont accept the codings what i try i dont have Original coding string
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